Most visits to a winery stop at the tasting room but the owners of the Regaleali estate in central Sicily have made it hard to walk away after a day of sipping the island's reds and whites. Owned by the Tasca d'Almerita family for seven generations, this 19th-century country manor doubles as an informal inn for those looking to leave behind Sicilian stereotypes and get a feel for life in its overlooked highlands.
Each guestroom is decorated differently. The Pianoforte suite, complete with antique furniture and a black-and-white checkered tile floor, was once used by the Tascas and is downstairs from where Count Lucio and his sosn, Alberto and Giuseppe, stay when they are on the estate overseeing their winemaking dynasty. Other rooms have been fashioned from the old barn and stables that look out onto the cobblestoned courtyard. In the library, once used for bottling the family's vintages, visitors can sip a glass of bubbly mad from chardonnay grown on the premises and pair it with ricotta-filled panzerotti (ravioli) and fritters as a prelude to dinner.
The seasonal menu features pasta with beans and spaghetti with sardines, followed by plates of rabbit and grilled veal rolls and a dessert of homemade cannoli and sfincia di San Giuseppe, a fried puff pastry sweetened with local honey......